Rediscovering Zimbabwe

This year is about rediscovering Zimbabwe. We’re returning to Mike’s roots – he was born in Harare – and beginning with one of Africa’s most extraordinary safari destinations: Mana Pools National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We already know the opposite bank well – the Lower Zambezi in Zambia – a place we return to often, not just for its landscapes but also for the leopards that seem scattered through the trees like Christmas decorations.

Now, having travelled across Mana Pools from west to east, staying in both inland retreats and riverfront camps, we can finally say we know both sides of the Zambezi intimately. Each offers something unique, and together they make a wonderfully complementary safari journey.

Inland Wilderness Camps in Mana Pools

While Mana Pools is celebrated for its dramatic Zambezi escarpment and river-based safaris, the inland camps are hidden gems. Here, wildlife is drawn to permanent waterholes, and predators are never far behind. These areas were once vulnerable to poaching, but thanks to proactive conservation and community involvement, the ecosystem has flourished again. We’ll never forget watching a leopard drink at a waterhole in the heat of the day, and then spotting another just before dinner the next day. These moments captured the raw magic of Mana Pools.

One particular inland retreat stole our hearts. With hearty home-cooked meals and a warm, family atmosphere, it felt like home in the bush. The camp has two hides: a large one where elephants arrived day and night, and a smaller bird hide where, to our surprise, we watched a lioness, a bushbuck, and even a hyena at close range. The sensory overload was real – buffalo herds, lions, eland, and plains game arriving one after another. This special camp will soon feature in one of our Zimbabwe safari itineraries.

Riverside Lodges and Zambezi Magic

For many travellers, a Mana Pools safari is synonymous with the river itself. Camps on the Zambezi’s edge overlook Zambia’s escarpment and offer constant wildlife activity. The park protects over 22,000 square kilometres of wilderness. Its name, ‘Mana’, comes from the Shona word for “four”, referring to the oxbow lakes – Mana, Chine, Chisambuk, and Long – that are remnants of the river’s ancient course.

This mosaic of habitats – from lush riverbanks to forests of mahogany, fig, and acacia albida, with iconic baobabs standing sentinel – creates astonishing biodiversity. Mana Pools is a paradise for elephants, buffalo, and predators, but also for birdwatchers, with over 380 species recorded. Fishing on the Zambezi adds yet another layer to the experience.

Walking Safaris in Mana Pools National Park

Unlike most national parks in Africa, large sections of Mana Pools are only accessible on foot. It’s also the only park where even self-drive visitors are permitted to walk unguided amongst big game – something we find puzzling, given Zimbabwe’s world-class professional guides.

Walking with these guides transforms the safari experience. With over 12,000 elephants in the ecosystem, encounters are almost inevitable. Locking eyes with an elephant on foot – those dark, intelligent eyes fringed with lashes – fills you with awe, adrenaline, and respect. Elephants may tolerate people, but they remain unpredictable, so reverence and caution are essential.

For a gentler perspective, canoeing the Zambezi offers unforgettable wildlife encounters: paddling past pods of hippos, drifting alongside elephants grazing the riverbanks, or watching flocks of carmine bee-eaters wheel overhead.

Private Concessions vs National Park Stays

When planning a Mana Pools safari, one important decision is whether to stay inside the national park or in a private concession. National park areas can sometimes feel crowded, especially along the riverfront where several vehicles may gather around a wild dog pack. We prefer a more respectful approach: animal first, photograph second. Private concessions, meanwhile, offer greater flexibility and exclusivity. Guests can enjoy night drives, boating, and canoeing in a more private setting – ideal for those seeking an immersive, uncrowded experience.

Why Zimbabwe Captures Us

Mike was born here, and while we’ve often returned to Zimbabwe to see friends and enjoy holidays, this deeper journey through Mana Pools has strengthened our connection. The guiding is outstanding, the lodges exceptional, and the wilderness endlessly varied.

And Mana Pools is just the start. We will soon travel across the country to experience lodges first-hand, ensuring our recommendations are always personal and informed. Next, we’ll be exploring Matusadona, Lake Kariba, and Hwange National Park – each with its own unique safari appeal.

Zimbabwe has truly captured our hearts. Whether it’s a walking safari in Mana Pools, a canoe journey on the Zambezi, or a stay in a luxury lodge under a baobab tree, we’d love to share this extraordinary country with you.