We began our journey early in the morning from Lilongwe with our guide and driver, Eddie. The road led us towards the Zambian border, where we were warmly welcomed by Hebert, our guide in Zambia, who had been patiently waiting for us. It was our first time in Zambia, and the excitement was tangible. As we travelled towards South Luangwa National Park, Hebert shared fascinating stories and facts about the country, setting the scene for the adventure that awaited us.

Nkwali Camp

Herbert dropped us off at our first stop Nkwali Camp, where we spent one night. Greeted with cold drinks (most welcome in the midday heat), we were shown to our spacious, beautifully decorated and very comfortable room. From camp, we could see hippos wallowing, crocodiles basking, baboons playing and even elephants moving along the riverbank. Lunch with our host was delightful, followed by afternoon tea at 3.30 p.m. before heading out on an evening game drive with our guide, Kanga. His knowledge of the bush was exceptional, and we were immediately thrown into the drama of the wild: four lions feeding on a buffalo while hyenas circled nearby, waiting their turn. It was raw, powerful, and unforgettable.

After the game drive, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner and spent time with another guest, Steve, who told us about his travels and adventures. He was full of energy and stories. That night, we had a good night’s sleep with the sounds of hippos in the background. In the morning, we had tea and coffee by the fire pit, watching the sunrise and the hippos in the river. After breakfast, we said goodbye to our guide Kanga and started our site visits. We visited Robin House, Luangwa Safari House, Luangwa River Camp, and Time + Tide Chinzombo. Each one was unique and beautiful, showcasing Zambia’s remarkable safari style.

Kafunta River Lodge

After a cozy night at Nkwali Camp and a couple of site inspections (because yes, we do mix business with pleasure), we headed off to our next safari escape: the beautiful Kafunta River Lodge. As we approached, we were greeted by the ever-radiant Betty, waving like we were long-lost friends returning from the wild. Her smile was absolutely contagious. We made our way to the main area, and what a space it was, natural luxury meets bush chic. Everything was beautifully curated, from the earthy tones to the cozy details that made it feel like home… if home came with elephants nearby.

Betty gave us a cheerful briefing, complete with personalised Kafunta Safari water bottles (and honestly, who doesn’t love seeing their name on cool merch?). After our welcome, we were shown to our room, and it was everything we’d hoped for. The view was straight out of a National Geographic spread: monkeys swinging about, warthogs strutting like they owned the place, and the soulful groans of hippos serenading us in the background. But the real MVP was the swinging daybed on our deck. It quickly became our happy place, perfect for emails, blog notes, or just swaying while pretending to be productive.

At exactly 12:30 p.m. (they are precise in the bush), our safari vehicle picked us up for lunch. Not just any lunch, we were whisked away to a secret bush location. A few steps down a path and suddenly a stunning elevated deck appeared in the middle of nowhere, complete with a delicious buffet and charming company. We dined with fellow guests and our guide John, swapping stories and soaking in the magic of it all. After lunch, Betty introduced us to Kafunta’s newest gem, The Sunset House. Just a short stroll from the main lodge, it was every bit as dreamy as its name suggests. Think of private paradise with panoramic views and the kind of vibes that make you want to move in permanently.

Back at our room (and yes, back on the swing), we caught up on some work before our afternoon game drive. After a quick tea break, we hopped into the safari vehicle with John at the helm. Elephants? Check. Kudus and waterbucks? Double check. But then… magic happened. Far off, draped over the branch of a massive tree, was a young leopard with a fresh baboon kill. We nearly launched ourselves out of the vehicle with excitement (don’t worry, we didn’t). Spotting a leopard was at the top of our South Luangwa bucket list, and this beautiful, elusive cat did not disappoint. We watched in awe as it eventually climbed down the tree and disappeared into the brush, leaving us completely spellbound.

Next up were sundowners, of course. John found the perfect scenic spot, and as proud Malawians, we had to try Zambia’s iconic gin, and let us tell you, it’s seriously competing with Malawian gin for a spot in our hearts. We even recruited fellow guests Kevin and his daughter to join the gin club, and they were instant fans. We laughed, sipped, and watched the sun slip below the horizon like it, too, had a safari to get to.

Back at camp, we freshened up for dinner and were welcomed by the ever-gracious Peter, who led us to our candlelit table right at the edge of the deck. Below us, two hippos were having their own moonlit feast. It was surreal and oddly charming. Dinner itself was phenomenal, but the Malva pudding? Honestly, that dessert deserves its own blog post. By the time we made it back to our room, we were completely blissed out. We drifted off to sleep with the sound of hippos munching just meters away, a true lullaby of the wild.

Thornicroft Lodge

On the third day, after a night at Kafunta River Lodge, our guide drove us straight from the morning game drive to Thornicroft Lodge, where we stayed for three nights. The welcome was amazing, full of singing and dancing and we even joined in! After a quick briefing, we drove to Mfuwe International Airport, about 45 minutes away, to collect ten of our clients who were joining us on the safari. Back at Thornicroft, we all received a full introduction to the lodge. Everyone was excited. The rooms were clean, nicely decorated, and very comfortable. We had a lovely lunch and a short rest before meeting for afternoon tea and heading out on an evening game drive with our clients.

The game drive was a birdwatcher’s dream. Our guides were excellent at spotting birds and animals, including bee-eaters, owls, eagles, kingfishers, and of course classic safari favourites. We enjoyed sundowners while sharing stories. It was lovely to see how quickly everyone bonded and felt like a family. We were later escorted safely to our rooms, as elephants often roam around the camp at night. If we needed help, we could simply flash the torch three times, and someone would come. Dinner was delicious, and the restaurant felt warm and friendly, filled with conversation and laughter. After dinner, we were walked back to our rooms for another peaceful night.

The next day started with a tasty breakfast before heading out for our lodge inspections. First, we visited Track and Trail Camp and met Chi Chi, the manager. She gave us a great presentation and showed us around, even though the rooms were occupied. Her detailed explanations helped us understand the place well. Then we visited KuKaya, where we had one of the best meals of our trip. The rooms were lovely, and the bird hide was perfect for bird lovers. A guide then drove us to Mfuwe Lodge, a smart and well-kept property. We saw a beautiful room with an upstairs area and an impressive old tree believed to be over 100 years old. In the lodge’s library, we learned about the late Phil Berry, a conservationist who loved Zambia and left behind a strong legacy.

A Bittersweet Farewell

After a short rest at Thornicroft, we had afternoon tea and went out for another exciting game drive. We saw giraffes, elephants, buffalo, and more beautiful birds. Our sundowner was fun and full of laughter as we enjoyed the company of our new safari family. That night, we had a delicious dinner that included Zambia’s favourite dish, nshima, which reminded us of Malawi’s nsima.

The next morning started early again. We were escorted to breakfast before our game drive. Although the sightings were quieter, our guide made it interesting with stories about the trees and local beliefs. We had a lovely bush breakfast under giant baobab trees and learned about their strength and meaning in Zambian culture. Lunch back at the lodge was peaceful, under the shade of a tree. Some of us rested, while others enjoyed browsing souvenirs.

That evening was our last game drive, and it was special. We saw a baby leopard that had been separated from its sibling, a touching and emotional moment. We also saw more elephants and giraffes before enjoying one last sundowner. It was a beautiful moment we all wanted to hold on to. Back at the lodge, we ended the day with dinner, music, and dancing, a perfect final night.

Morning came, and it was time to say goodbye. South Luangwa had felt like home in such a short time. After breakfast, we thanked the amazing staff and said farewell to our fellow travellers who had become like family. Hebert picked us up, and we made a few last stops on the way out, including Tribal Textiles and Mulberry Mongoose. We admired the stunning handmade crafts, jewellery, cushions and baskets, all made with great talent by locals.