Our journey kicked off in the early morning hours as the sun lazily peeked over the horizon in Lilongwe, Malawi. Waking up before dawn felt like a small sacrifice for the promise of new experiences. Sleepy-eyed but excited, we set off for the airport with our main man, Kennedy, behind the wheel. With Mozambique’s Southern Beaches calling our names, we eagerly boarded our 8 am Malawian Airlines flight to Johannesburg, South Africa, for a brief stopover.
Touching down in Johannesburg, the city’s bustling energy greeted us with open arms. Amidst the chaos of arrivals and departures, a sense of calm awaited us at our sanctuary for the night: The Peech, tucked away in a quaint corner of Melrose. Arriving at The Peech felt like a haven of relaxation and luxury. From the lush gardens to the stylish interiors, every corner exuded an air of understated elegance. Our spacious and tastefully decorated room provided the ideal retreat after a day of travel. Dinner at The Peech was a delight, with the starter and main course expertly prepared and presented. Yet, the staff at The Peech truly stole the show. Their genuine warmth and thoughtfulness made us feel like cherished guests rather than mere visitors. We fondly remembered a well-spent night as we bid adieu to The Peech the next morning.
With the rising sun signalling a new day, a short 1-hour 30-minute flight from Johannesburg into Vilanculos brought us to the quaint Vilankulo Airport, reminiscent of Lilongwe International Airport. Our driver, Bruno, a soft-spoken gentleman with a calm demeanour and a strong Portuguese accent, greeted us warmly and informed us that our transfer to our next destination would take “only” two hours.
Embarking on the drive, we navigated mostly rough roads until we reached a special stretch where we drove along the beach to reach Rio Azul. Nestled on an estuary with breathtaking views, our arrival was met by Mark—a friendly and boisterous host who welcomed us with open arms. Our villa, a three-bedroom haven for the four of us, was adorned with thoughtful touches, including a chilled bottle of champagne—a delightful surprise against the backdrop of the ocean’s soothing melody.
Our second day at Rio Azul took us to Sussurro—a hidden gem that surpassed all expectations. With its Zen-like ambience and meticulously crafted decor, Sussurro exuded an air of peacefulness. We savoured a delightful lunch amidst an open-plan kitchen, where guests could witness the culinary magic unfold before their eyes. The afternoon ended in a magical dhow cruise along the estuary—a serene voyage that left an unforgettable impression on us. Drifting along the ocean as the sun dipped below the horizon, we were serenaded by the soft sounds of traditional Mozambican Portuguese music—a fitting soundtrack to our journey. Over two lovely days in the Inhasorro area, we indulged in the serenity of our surroundings. We took leisurely strolls along the beach, marvelling at the wonder of the ocean’s high and low tides.
Leaving behind Rio Azul, our journey continued as we ventured back from Inhasorro to Vilanculos Airport. From Vilankulos Airport, we embarked on an exhilarating helicopter ride to Azura’s helicopter pad, where we were warmly welcomed and zipped away to &Beyond Benguerra Lodge. Our night was incredible, with every detail meticulously attended to by the attentive staff.
During our stay, we participated in various activities, including paddleboarding and kayaking, which provided a perfect balance of adventure and relaxation. Afterwards, we spent the afternoon unwinding by the pool, soaking in the breathtaking views as the sunset. Come dinnertime, Sergio treated us to a delicious meal under the stars on the beach. The chicken kabob, served on a unique contraption with a plate, was a sight to behold and tasted just as amazing as it looked.
Our journey led us to the vibrant Azura—a sprawling resort on Benguera Island’s sandy expanse. Although boasting only 20 rooms, Azura felt more like a lively hub of activity than an intimate hideaway. Its grandeur was evident, with options like the exclusive Presidential Villa and Villa Amizade dotting the landscape, promising a lavish escape from the ordinary.
At Azura, evenings were a delight, with the culinary team crafting dishes that tantalized our taste buds. Each meal celebrated local cuisine, enjoyed under the twinkling stars, with glasses clinking and laughter filling the air. Setting off the following morning, we explored deeper into the island on an engaging tour. Our journey took us past the island’s humble school, the local hospital, and finally, Benguerra Island’s ranger station—a vital hub of conservation efforts. After our tour, a brief afternoon visit to Kisawa left us in awe. Featuring one, two, and three-bedroom villas, Kisawa epitomizes luxury on a grand scale.
On departing Kisawa, we met with Jay Jay from Zenguelemo at the Beach, where he carried us away by boat to Zenguelemo. Tucked away on Bazaruto Island and run by the local community and Jay Jay’s family, Zenguelemo is a gem with just three snug chalets decked out in stylish decor and some more basic and comfortable castaway tents. Our boat rides to and from Zenguelemo were a treat, witnessing loggerhead turtles bobbing in and out of the ocean upon arrival and spotting a Dugong on our departure. Can you believe it? It had us all shouting excitedly, even if the sighting was brief.
Returning from our adventure at Zenguelemo on Bazaruto, our next stop was back on the mainland for a night at AsDunas. Tucked about a 20-minute drive outside Vilanculos town, AsDunas is a wonderful lodge with only 8 rooms—6 tents and 2 cottages. The lodge exudes a polished safari-style vibe, modelled after a classic safari camp—a unique blend of bush and beach that I greatly appreciated as a safari lover. The service staff were exceptional, exemplified by Boaventura, our waiter, proficient in French, Portuguese, and English.
Santorini was our next stop. It is a Greek-inspired oasis, with its all-white and blue aesthetic perfectly framing the breathtaking beach views. Meals at Santorini were creative, and our butler, Sergio, ensured all our dining experiences were enjoyable. We took advantage of the ocean activities, enjoying kayaking and paddleboarding before preparing to leave for our next destination.
Our adventure continued with a five-and-a-half-hour drive to Tofu and two nights at Travessia, a charming lodge in Masinga Beach. The sweet Raul hosted the lodge, which offered a remote yet beautiful beach. Despite its remoteness, Travessia was meticulously planned, built, and maintained, reflecting the owners’ passion and dedication.
Although we arrived late on the first day at Travessia, we had to leave early on departure day for a once-in-a-lifetime activity. The morning of our departure saw us up at dawn, filled with excitement for the day’s activities. After a hearty breakfast, we headed to Peri-Peri Divers, an impressive dive shop in Tofu offering various activities, including whale shark swimming and diving. While we were thrilled at the prospect of swimming with these gentle giants, I couldn’t help but feel a bit apprehensive. The idea of encountering such a massive creature in its natural habitat was both exhilarating and nerve-wracking.
After booking our adventure at Peri-Peri Divers, we proceeded to Sava Dunes, where we would spend the night. Sava Dunes, situated between Tofu and Barra, is a delightful lodge run by the knowledgeable couple José and Sonette. Sonette’s expertise about the lodge and the surrounding areas was unmatched, and her warm welcome set the tone for our stay. Despite being one of the more no-frills lodges we visited, Sava Dunes stood out for its exceptional service, attention to detail, and hands-on approach of the owners. The beautiful view from Sava Dunes, where we spotted numerous dolphins from the balcony, made it one of my favourite spots.
After settling in at Sava Dunes, we returned to Tofu for our sea safari—led by our instructor in training, Dean. Spotting a whale shark was surreal, and Dean, his skipper, and his assistant ensured everyone a safe and enjoyable experience. As we approached the area where the whale shark was spotted, my heart thumped with excitement and a touch of fear. However, as soon as I was in the water and saw it gliding beneath me, any apprehension melted away, replaced by awe and wonder. Swimming above the whale shark, I felt an overwhelming sense of peace at that moment—an experience I’ll cherish forever. Upon returning to shore, the excitement continued as we experienced the thrill of beaching onto the shore, holding on tight as the boat flew over the waves.
Back at Sava Dunes, we enjoyed a lovely dinner with José and Sonette, reflecting on our incredible day. The comfortable accommodations ensured a restful night’s sleep, capping off an unforgettable experience at Sava Dunes.
With the dawn of a new day, we hopped on a flight to Maputo Airport and soon found ourselves checking into the Serena Hotel Serena Polana. With its grand old-world charm, the hotel offered stunning ocean views and an air of history. Although our rooms had a city view, the accommodations were comfortable, and the staff went above and beyond, especially when someone in our party felt under the weather.
Our adventure was soon coming to a close with just one more destination, taking us on a boat ride to Machangulo, where the stunning Colina Verde is located. The ride was a bit choppy and a challenge for someone like me who gets seasick. But the crew handled it expertly, navigating the swells with ease. Upon arrival, we met Keegan, who guided us on a scenic walk due to the low tide. Machangulo was buzzing with activity—lots of cottages, cabins, and a lively fishing competition, but once we reached Collina Verde, tranquillity enveloped us.
Perched on a hill, this beautiful house offers breathtaking ocean views. Each of the seven uniquely designed rooms has its own theme. I stayed in the Elephant Room, which featured a magnificent bath where I soaked a few times, enjoying pure relaxation. Other rooms included the Dolphin Room, Turtle Room, Inhaca Island Room, Hippo Room, Whale Room, and Monkey Room. Keegan and Georgie, who run Colina Verde, were incredible hosts, anticipating our needs with remarkable instinct. The patio featured an open bar with snacks always available, adding a nice touch of luxury and convenience. However, Chef Joy’s meals were the highlight—each dish was a masterpiece.
Our second day at Colina Verde included a deep-sea fishing adventure. Despite the choppy and murky waters, which kept us from catching anything, we had a fantastic time on the boat. The thrill of the open sea and the shared experience with our group made it a memorable adventure.
As our Mozambican adventure ended, our stay at Collina Verde was a beautiful end to a beautiful trip. We left with full hearts and a promise to return, already dreaming of our next escape to this stunning slice of paradise.