The South Luangwa National Park, situated just an hour’s flight from Lilongwe or Lusaka, is a wildlife enthusiast’s ultimate destination. Nicknamed the ‘Valley of the Leopard’ due to its exceptional big cat sightings, this park is steeped in history and tradition. It was here that Norman Carr, a renowned conservationist, pioneered the concept of walking safaris and sustainable tourism in Africa.

Today, expert guides trained by Norman himself continue to share their knowledge and passion for the park. We were fortunate enough to explore the less-trodden paths with one of them, the legendary Abraham. On foot and under the stars, it was truly a magical experience!

Hippo Alarm Clock

At 4:30 am, half an hour before our wake-up call, the sound of hippos snorting wakes us up in one of the wildest places on the planet, signaling the start of our walking safari adventure. Visiting South Luangwa is always a special experience, but this time it feels especially so, as my dear friend Birgit from the Netherlands has joined us. Birgit is one of my closest friends and a beacon of positivity, always spreading joy and energy wherever she goes. She truly deserves a safari experience like this, and I’m thrilled to share it with her. Seeing things through her eyes makes me appreciate every moment even more.

As we enjoy the aroma of freshly brewed coffee on the campfire, we watch the sun rise over the floodplain. While we warm ourselves by the fire, we glance up from our hearty breakfast to observe kingfishers hovering and diving for a meal. There is something enchanting about witnessing the bush come alive in this soft morning light. The air is filled with the sweet songs of birds, and the gentle rustle of leaves as the trees awaken from their slumber. And honestly, it’s moments like these that make all our worries fade away – not to mention the sweet relief of being far away from overflowing email inboxes.

The air is still cool when we begin our walk, and we all huddle in our jackets, knowing that the sun will soon warm us up. One step at a time, we move cautiously, keeping our ears and eyes open to take in all the sounds of the bush and spot animals and birds starting their day. This gentle yet immersive way of experiencing the untamed beauty of the wilderness allows us to reconnect with nature and ourselves. And for Birgit, a proper city girl, it’s a surprise revelation that a real-life bush girl has been hiding deep inside her. “Who knew those perfectly manicured hands and long nails were just a cover for a secret love of roughing it in the bush?”

Steaming Pile of Lion Poo

From a safe distance, we admire a family of elephants in the distance, see a handsome male kudu making its way through the bushes, and spot lots of beautiful birds. Then we decide to follow lion and hyena tracks that are heading towards where we will stay for the night. How exciting. We follow Abraham’s instructions like small school children on a field trip. After a while, he reckons we are getting very close to the lions and they must be near a nearby elephant carcass they were seen feeding on the day before. And indeed, not much later, we spot a big pile of fresh lion poo – still steaming in the cold air. The grasses are tall and very dense, so we decide not to continue tracking the lions.

The hyena tracks are heading in a slightly different direction; let’s follow them. And then our ranger stops and quietly points to a bush right in front of us. Two hyenas appear, they look at us uninterested, and continue walking in the direction of the lions slowly. A walking safari is an exhilarating addition to your safari experience, perfect for adventure seekers.

We return to our bush camp to freshen up, where a delicious brunch awaits us. As we relax, we suddenly hold our breath as a herd of elephants makes its way through camp. We sit and watch as they pass through, their quiet footsteps a surprise. After a refreshing siesta, we’re treated to a delightful high tea before heading out for another walking safari.

This time, we make our way to our sleepout location for the night. We learn the difference between lion and leopard paws, watch in awe when we see the beautiful tracks of a crocodile who made its way through the dry riverbed during the night. The intricate patterns and delicate lines are so beautiful they could be considered a work of art.

As we explore, we come across dung beetles hard at work, breaking down and recycling dung into the soil. These small insects may be often overlooked, but they play a crucial role in the ecosystem. They enable nutrients in the dung to cycle through the ecosystem, a process that could be easily missed from the vantage point of a moving safari vehicle. By walking through the bush, we’re able to appreciate these tiny but vital details and gain a deeper understanding of this fascinating environment.

Sleeping Under a Canopy of Twinkling Stars

As we approach, the golden light of day gives way to our overnight camp in a dry riverbed. As we round the bend, mosquito net tents come into view. Just as the early explorers did, we’ll fall asleep under a canopy of a million twinkling stars, lulled by the susurrations of the nighttime bush. How exciting!

Cozy bedrolls, bush loo, bucket shower, and even beanbags around the fire are all at our disposal. The culinary team ensures that our bush experience is both comfortable and memorable, constantly bringing us delicious treats. We kick off our shoes and let our toes sink into the soft sand. As the sun sets, we sip our gin and tonics while being mesmerized by a glowing red sky.

We enjoy a braai with a diverse range of food options. There are roasted vegetables, potatoes, chicken, boerewors, beef, and even nshima, the traditional staple food in Zambia made from maize meal and water. It’s a lovely opportunity for Birgit to try some local cuisine. And, as it turns out, it pairs perfectly with red wine when combined with the relish.

As night falls, we settle into our cozy bedrolls surrounded by the raw beauty of the African bush. The star-studded sky twinkles above us, and the symphony of nocturnal wildlife whispers through the night. It’s not just a night outdoors – it’s an immersive experience in nature’s grandeur that feels almost like a dream. In silence, we gaze up at the stars, taking hundreds of photos with our phones. Suddenly, Birgit’s voice calls out from the next mosquito net: “Guys, look at the moon rising! It’s stunning – I’ve never seen a moonrise before.” We eventually drift off to sleep to the distant calls of hyenas and lions. Waking up feeling refreshed and ready for another walking safari to our next Time+Tide bushcamp.

We hope that this experience will leave a lasting impression on Birgit’s heart and mind. We’re confident that this African adventure has sparked a newfound love for our beautiful continent and its incredible wildlife. And from what I’ve heard from a reliable source (wink-wink), it seems that Birgit has already taken a sneak peek at flight availability online – it’s safe to say that she’ll be back in Africa again soon!

Time + Tide Bush Camps

feel a million miles away

We absolutely love the Time+Tide bush camps in South Luangwa. These seasonal retreats are rustic and nestled deep in the heart of the park, where luxury is less about lavish suites and more about being one of only a handful of guests in some of Zambia’s wildest corners. Time+Tide’s bushcamps are blissfully isolated, with no other camps for miles around. The atmosphere is serene, making it the perfect spot to reconnect with nature in a meaningful way.

Established by the legendary safari pioneer Norman Carr, Norman Carr’s camps have been meticulously crafted to provide an unforgettable safari experience. Situated in the park’s most privileged game-rich areas, each camp boasts its own distinctive character, reflecting Carr’s passion for wilderness adventure and commitment to environmental sustainability.

From the tranquility of a river lagoon teeming with wildlife, to the majestic vantage point of the Luangwa River, every camp offers a unique perspective on the beauty of South Luangwa. With expansive views, open-air design, and organic materials, these camps seamlessly blend into their surroundings, immersing guests in the natural world and providing an authentic connection to the African wilderness that Norman Carr knew and loved.

We recommend combining safari walks with day and night game drives to experience everything the bush has to offer. Or take it a step further and walk from one bush camp to another, and add a sleepout. Just like we did.

Let us help you craft your ultimate safari adventure, where every moment is infused with the finer details of this breathtaking landscape.