As a specialist in African safaris, I know it’s important not to play favourites, as each country, park, and lodge has a distinct appeal. Yet, a particular park in Zambia continually draws me back. It’s where I feel most connected to nature, at home, and far from the usual tourist bustle. That park is The Lower Zambezi National Park.

Lower Zambezi is a place where true wilderness still reigns. You feel far from the hustle and bustle of human civilization. A stay here provides an authentic and exhilarating safari experience you will never forget.

Lower Zambezi National Park Facts

• The park is 4,092km² in size.
• It’s located on the north bank of the Zambezi River. Until 1983, it was the private game reserve of the president of Zambia, when it became a national park.
• Lower Zambezi NP lies opposite Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe.
• Some parts of the park are UNESCO World Heritage sites.
• No fences exist between the park and the surrounding ‘game management area’; animals can roam freely.
• In addition to excellent game drives, walking safaris, fishing, and boating, this park is famous for the canoe option down the mighty Zambezi River. 

The Lower Zambezi National Park is a true safari gem well known for its impressive variety of animals.

Travelling to The Lower Zambezi

Each year, I plan, or rather, find a reason, to spend some time in The Lower Zambezi National Park. Recently, I was very lucky to embark on an educational trip with my husband, Mike, the founder of Crafted Africa. We wanted to rediscover the beauty of the familiar camps we already knew and loved and explore new places.

The flight from Lusaka to Lower Zambezi is truly breathtaking. As you soar over the mountains, you can’t help but be struck by the vastness of the area, a sensation that humbles you and makes you feel small, like a mouse. It’s a grounding feeling that nourishes the soul. The airstrips in the heart of the bush are meticulously cleared by guides who drive safari vehicles back and forth to ensure safe landings for humans and wildlife. Just before our aircraft touches down, I catch sight of elephants munching on a nearby tree by the airstrip. What a heartwarming welcome!

Incredible Wildlife Sightings

Upon arrival at the first lodge, our clients, who are also good friends, excitedly shared that they spotted an aardvark near the camp when they returned from their evening game drive the night before. I am in disbelief, and together, we toast with a gin & tonic to celebrate this remarkable sighting. With their quirky appearance, Aardvarks are elusive and shy creatures rarely seen by humans. Some seasoned safari guides who have spent years in the area have never had the privilege of encountering one. That’s how exceptional it is.

South Luangwa in Zambia is commonly called the ‘Valley of the Leopard’, and for good reason. However, during my visits to Lower Zambezi in the past eight years, I have encountered many leopards. Once again, on this trip, we are fortunate to see many.

A Hyena, a Leopard and a Crocodile

The morning’s first game drive kicked off with a rather unique sighting. We spent several hours exploring the bush, marvelling at the diverse array of beautiful birds and “plain game.” Aware that encountering the larger animals might take time, we relished the opportunity to be present in the bush simply. We took one last loop as we leisurely returned to camp for breakfast. 

Little did we know that this decision would lead to an unforgettable experience. Turning a corner, we were greeted by a commotion—bushes rustling, a hyena in pursuit of a leopard, and a crocodile, far from the water’s edge, sinking its teeth into the hyena’s leg. The rapid sequence of events left us speechless, with no time to capture the scene on camera. The memory of the encounter remains etched in my mind. Intrigued, we observed the leopard perched on a branch near our vehicle, having relinquished its kill to the limping hyena, which still guarded the remains. Watching the drama unfold, we temporarily postponed our breakfast plans.

Baboons and Buffaloes

After approximately 10 minutes, a large troop of baboons approached the vehicle, and upon spotting the leopard, the larger baboons prepared to take action. It was a tense morning for the beautiful leopard as the baboons chased her further up the tree, hoping to evade them. After some intimidating gestures, the baboons eventually retreated and continued their path into the bushes. As we prepared to head back, we encountered a surprising sight around the next corner—on one side, a significant herd of elephants, while on the other side, an even larger group of buffaloes. We observed in amazement as some buffaloes skillfully climbed termite mounds to access fresh leaves they couldn’t reach otherwise.

Chiawa Sleepout

This marked just the beginning of our safari adventure, setting an exciting tone for the following two weeks. During this time, we were treated to numerous spectacular sightings, including encounters with approximately 14 different leopards. Some of these magnificent creatures were observed multiple times, with one memorable occasion during a sleepout experience at Chiawa. As we lay under the vast African sky on a raised platform not far from the lodge, enveloped in the warmth of a duvet, we marvelled at the stars above and listened to the ambient sounds of the bush. A commotion erupted from the nearby bushes as the baboons expressed their displeasure and anger. The following morning, we unravelled the events of the night. A leopard had successfully hunted and hoisted a large baboon up a tree branch, strategically placing it above a road we needed to navigate for our morning safari.

Old Mondoro: Wild dogs and an Aardvark

Our journey concludes with a stay at Old Mondoro, a bush camp with a special place in our hearts. This authentic and remote setting offers the best guides, incredible food, and an unparalleled wilderness experience. Adding to the charm, our friends Mark and Madelein manage the camp, adding an extra layer of warmth to our stay.

After experiencing numerous remarkable sightings and spending considerable time in a bumpy vehicle, Mike decides to join Mark for some relaxed fishing on the river. At the same time, Madelein accompanies me on a safari. I confiscated Mike’s big camera, expecting another extraordinary encounter. And indeed, the safari doesn’t disappoint again. We witnessed two leopards perched in a tree, a vast herd of elephants interacting in beautiful scenery, mating lions, and wild dogs successfully hunting and devouring a quick meal on the move. 

Returning to camp after a sundowner drink, our memory cards filled to the brim and wide smiles on our faces, we can’t wait to share our adventures with our partners. However, our excitement is unexpectedly interrupted as our vehicle abruptly veers to the right, picking up speed. Our guide directs our attention to a momentous sight – an aardvark swiftly disappearing into its burrow. I captured a vague video as proof to show Mike later, fully aware of his scepticism. After all, he often teases me by saying, “If it’s not on camera, it never happened.” The pressure is on!

Till next time, Lower Zambezi

The Lower Zambezi National Park is a unique destination that touches your soul profoundly.

A huge thank you to our partners in Lower Zambezi who graciously hosted us on this unforgettable journey: Zambezi Grande, Chiawa Safaris, Chongwe, Tusk & Mane, and Lolebezi. Each of you offers remarkable experiences that are distinct from one another. I am eagerly looking forward to returning.

P.S. I still possess Mike’s camera and have no plans to return it to him anytime soon.