Low density, high value safari: Liuwa Plain, Zambia

King Lewanika Lodge | Liuwa Plain National Park

King Lewanika Lodge sits on the edge of a rare, forested woodland overlooking the vast, open expanse of Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia. The lodge is perfectly placed to witness Africa’s second largest wildebeest migration and the incredible diversity of wildlife that calls this place home. Its award-winning architecture reflects the golden hues of the plain, inviting you to fully immerse yourself in one of Africa’s wildest, most untamed corners.

Our arrival was the perfect introduction to this wildness. Just as we prepared to land, a small herd of wildebeest casually crossed the runway, forcing our pilot to circle again. It was a cheeky reminder that here nature calls the shots. From the air, herds of wildebeest and their calves dotted the plain, their steady migration a powerful sight even from above.
 
Liuwa National Park itself is immense, covering more than 3,300 square kilometres of wilderness stretching endlessly in every direction. This is a landscape that rewards those who seek something beyond the crowded safari circuits of East Africa. Lions roam freely here, hyenas gather in clans sometimes numbering fifty strong, and pans shimmer with rare aquatic birdlife. The park is a remarkable conservation success story, once on the brink of collapse but now thriving thanks to the dedicated efforts of African Parks and Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife.

The Wildebeest Migration and Wildlife Encounters

When the rains break over Liuwa Plain, the whole landscape seems to breathe again. Weeks of heat and dust vanish, replaced almost overnight by carpets of delicate pink sand lilies scattered like spilled paint. The wildebeest follow, moving with a steady, purposeful rhythm that is mesmerising to witness.

I have witnessed migrations before, the famous river crossings of East Africa, but the crowds and traffic jams always left me unsettled. Here at Liuwa, from October to May, the herds drift near the lodge, closely followed by lions, cheetahs, wild dogs and hyenas. There are no queues of vehicles or frantic battles for the best viewing spot. Just space. Real space. And a quiet thrill as the predator-prey dance unfolds naturally.

I could have spent all day photographing wildebeest weaving through the pink lilies beneath a dramatic, cloud-filled sky. It felt like stepping into a living painting. Eventually, we moved on to track lions and cheetahs. Luck was on our side. We spotted several hyenas, two cheetahs resting under a tree and we watched lions stalking prey from a respectful distance, never disturbing the delicate balance of nature.

Our hearts raced as two lionesses crept near a newborn wildebeest calf, but the youngest’s inexperience gave the calf a narrow escape.

Later, a magnificent male lion casually walked right past our camp, even close to our room. A vivid reminder of just how wild this place remains. He paused to drink from a nearby water puddle before slipping back into the tall grass.

Culture, Conservation and Community

What truly distinguishes Liuwa is the deep-rooted connection between the land and its people. The Lozi community has long depended on Liuwa’s waterways for sustenance, practising traditional fishing using nets, traps and spears passed down through generations. Park management actively supports these customs, promoting sustainable fishing and providing resources such as fish-drying facilities and transport to local markets, helping generate vital income for families.

Fishing rights are carefully managed by local chiefs, who oversee access to specific pans through a permit system. Families return year after year to waters allocated to them, ensuring fish stocks remain healthy and available. This balance between traditional livelihoods and conservation is a cornerstone of Liuwa’s unique spirit.

King Lewanika is not about flashy luxury. It is a low impact, high value Zambia safari where nature, culture and community come first. Where wilderness still means something real.

Liuwa stays with me. It is a place I will return to.